Lessons From the Rainforest
Female orangutan peering through the trees
I had heard about a village on the edge of the Sumatran jungle, in Indonesia called Bukit Lawang from friends I had met living in China. They had expressed how incredible it was seeing wild Orangutans and various other wildlife. My girlfriend and I were looking to do a trek somewhere within a few hours flight during our summer break from our home in southern China. Therefore, due to the close proximity of this part of Asia, it made sense. We had also backpacked around south east Asia for five months in 2014 and had been back a couple of times since. It had been a while since we had been on a multi day trek and we were craving the simplicity of what trekking brings.
From Medan airport, we got a 3 hour taxi which skirted along the countryside through many small villages. At times we were travelling through parts of rainforest, and for about half of the journey we drove through deforested areas which were now replaced by miles and miles of farm land and palm oil trees. This felt sad and was a raw, first hand view of the absolute devastation we as humans have caused and still are causing to our delicate planet. It was quite unbelievable to witness. Suddenly the rainforest returned in the final part of our journey and we arrived at our destination. The village was absolutely beautiful. All the homes and buildings had tinned roofs with a very rustic feel to it. There was a river running next to the rainforest on one side, with the village on the other. Walking through the village was another reminder of how living simply can bring more peace than the chaotic, busy lives we lead in many parts of the world. People seemed more content, relaxed and there was a real sense of community. Kids were jumping off the wooden bridge which connects the rainforest to the village without a care in the world. It was very clear to see that this community were at one with nature and not so reliant on modern technology. It’s important to mention that I’m well aware many of these people living in poorer areas of the world would dream of having the luxuries and wealth millions of others have in other parts of the planet. We in the ‘developed’ world are very fortunate to have access to healthcare amongst other important human necessities. Again, I’m aware not everyone lives comfortably in the west or other developed countries, far from it. I will touch on this topic in more detail in a future blog.
After an afternoon relaxing in the village, eating the local food and preparing for our trek, we met Acheng, a young guide who had been taking visitors for a few years exploring the jungle. We were also accompanied by a local man ( unfortunately I can’t remember his name ), who would meet us every night at our new camping spot to cook us food. He would make his way down the river on a small boat carrying all the ingredients and cookware required.
We trekked for four days in the jungle, walking around 4-5 hours a day, up and down through the dense jungle. The first day we encountered a few other travellers but after that we probably only saw a couple more people which made the experience really feel like we were in the wilderness. Each day we would encounter perhaps five Orang-utan’s on average. On the first day we came across Nala, who was famous in this part of the jungle who had become semi-wild. She started to learn to corner people and demand food and only then would she let them past. Our guide had experienced this with Nala many times so was aware of how to safely get past her. It took us a good 15 minutes and my partner and I were instructed to hold back a good few meters or so. He knew the exact food she would demand, as well as the amount. He was also very careful about not getting too close.
We always felt very safe in orangutan territory
The next day we were a few hours into the trek, and had only seen a few orangutans up in the trees or at a distance away when suddenly, an enormous male climbed down from the canopy. He started scratching himself with some sticks which he had broken off. Our guide seemed calm, since he comes into contact with the wild beasts quite often. However, we froze slightly, we felt a little nervous but we trusted Acheng. I remember so clearly just observing the male in absolute amazement, about 10 meters away. It didn’t seem too bothered we were in its way and casually continued scratching himself. Then, out of nowhere his baby orangutan slowly walked out of the dense vegetation and started climbing and swinging on the canopy. This was truly incredible to witness and it all seemed so calm. A few minutes later, both the male and the young orangutan climbed back up into the trees and carried on with their day. It was a moment where I honestly felt like I was in a wildlife documentary.
Each day we would encounter amazing bird life, wild boars, turtles, bizarre looking insects and Sumatran Langur monkeys which were absolutely beautiful. They were very shy and didn’t make much noise. They would just observe us without a care in the world, whilst snacking on some fruit. We would finish the day at a section of the river and camp in one of the wooden huts which had no doors. I remember feeling a bit apprehensive at falling asleep knowing there were wild elephants and tigers in this jungle and that technically they could just wander into our hut. Our guide was so relaxed about it and reassured us that this won’t happen whilst finding our slight nerves rather amusing. Of course, he had grown up in an environment much closer to nature than we had. Acheng had been a guide in this jungle for a few years so I guess it was normal for him to seem relaxed about possible dangerous wild encounters.
I remember waking up on the final morning feeling more comfortable in this environment, feeling at peace. I hadn’t looked at a screen (apart from my camera) for 4 days and was feeling refreshed at this simple existence, even if it had only been for just a few days. I remember the final day we were quite high up and there was a gap in between the trees. We stopped to have lunch. The jungle, stretched as far as the eye could see. Nothing but towering trees, which formed a dense canopy overhead. All we could hear were insects and birds, and every minute or so, monkeys howling from a distance. Another special moment arrived when a toucan glided above us, over the trees and started making a calling sound. We all just sat there in amazement at the raw beauty we had just witnessed.
Nala, the fiesty female who insisted we gave her food before letting us past
Fast-flowing river running through the rainforest
The end of the trekking was upon us and we arrived at our final camp spot, tired and hungry but feeling elated and a little emotional at the experience we had endured which was sadly coming to an end. Whilst waiting for our dinner to be cooked, Acheng sensed there could be wild elephants in the area and we all walked up the river for a few minutes. He told us to hold back whilst he got in a small boat and went searching for clues. I looked up and the sun was setting on top of the canopy, and I remember seeing an abundance of birds and insects flying into the light. It looked like a nature documentary, but no this was really in front of our eyes. This was life, like I had never witnessed before. The trees looked stunning hitting the light and to this day I have never seen such raw, natural beauty. I looked behind me and the river was beaming with light and everything just seemed so perfect. It was breath-taking and it felt like true wilderness.
The day finished by jumping off some rocks into the river, trying to squeeze every last moment of this trip we had left. Soon after, we sat on a big rock next to the river eating dinner which consisted of rice, fish and vegetables. The next morning we packed our bags, and floated down the river back to Bukit Lawang on a rubber dingy which took us through a couple of small rapids and longhouses which was a great way to end the trip.
That afternoon our guesthouse organised a driver to take us back to the capital of Sumatra, Medan, where we would stay the night before our journey to the island of Pulua Weh would begin. I felt very strange being back in civilisation and in the modern world again. Yes, Medan was a small city and relatively unknown, but simply just being out of the jungle and back into the busy world gave me an uncomfortable feeling. From suddenly feeling incredibly in tune with nature and experiencing life away from civilisation, I was away from it and this is when I came to the realisation of something big.
I have always appreciated the outdoors but I remember coming back to China a couple of weeks later and I felt a deeper connection than ever before. I started walking slower, taking more time to observe what’s around me. When I would see a beautiful tree in a park I would really look at it, and appreciate it. This has permanently changed me and to this day I really try and make time for a walk of some sort without any distractions. I find this helps slow my mind down, and allows me to be more present.
This experience made it clear to me that I needed to find a way to live and work closer to nature in some way. But more importantly I’m understood the bigger picture, life should be simple, not overly complicated.
Finally, this short but significant time in Indonesia really hit home how out of touch we are with nature. Not enough of us are realising how vital it is for our health. Originally life was simple for humans not so long ago. It’s time we stepped back a bit and woke up as a species.
Our final camp spot in the Sumatran rainforest
